This is a collection of watches you could proudly display in the presence of just about any watch snob and still hold your head high. Some may quibble over the choices, one or two churlish aficionados may even disagree (sometimes vehemently) about the brands, but watch for watch their pedigree and lasting popularity is impeccable. They represent some of the most sought after collections from some of the finest watch makers in the world.
If you own any one of these watches, wear your timepiece in the full confidence that you are wearing a watch with in-built history, heritage and horological excellence. If you are a beginner in the world of collecting watches, you might like to take notes.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 1
The Rolex Day-Date President
The Rolex Day-Date has been synonymous with prestige, power, and exclusivity ever since its inception. In 1948, the Chairman of Rolex presented President Eisenhower with an 18k yellow gold Datejust watch, one of the company’s most exclusive watches, to celebrate the Allied victory over the Nazis in World War II. However, in 1956, Eisenhower’s watch needed a new bracelet. The new bracelet with a concealed clasp was nicknamed the “President’s bracelet”, and soon the Day-Date watch also became nicknamed the “President” due to the exclusive bracelet which is still available only for the Day-Date.
There will be no brownie points for originality in wearing this watch, it is the tried and tested mark of a man who has achieved a certain level of success in his career. Of all the watches in this collection this choice could be perceived as the cliché, but it is essential to include it simply because for many, including Warren Buffet, it remains the watch to wear.
Ever since Eisenhower wore one, the Day-Date has regularly adorned the wrists of world leaders, celebrities, and high profile business executives alike. Originally admired for pioneering the Day-Date function, it is now revered as a symbol of class and distinction.
The most sought after model, particularly in the Far East, is the solid 18k gold version, but the watch also comes in Platinum and White Gold. The gold model was more ubiquitous than Mercedes saloons in both Hong Kong and Singapore. They became known as the Towkay, or Big Boss watch and even those that could not afford one sought to acquire it.
At its heart the watch is a self-winding COSC certified chronometer. Obsessive Rolex quality ensures that everything about it is just right before it leaves the factory. It only gains about 1 second a day so it’s certainly a reliable timekeeper. Many collectors will tell you that a Rolex Day Date is as good as cash anywhere in the world. There are watches of more value and prestige, but a Rolex has worldwide clout.
Comfortable, durable, versatile, dependable, these are some of the qualities people love about the Rolex Day Date. Like all Rolex watches, it is designed to be worn daily, not pampered and kept locked away in a box. Many owners have worn their Day Date for decades and had it serviced probably much less than it should be, yet still it continues to give good service. It’s a watch designed to look good in any situation, business or weekend casual, it’s sophisticated, self-assured, a statement.
Rolex describe the watch as the very essence of luxury worn by the world’s elite, and that undoubtedly rings true. It comes in a number of variations, including extremely blingy diamond encrusted versions, but these are merely gilding the lily. Avoid these and go for the less flashy gold or platinum versions of this classic timepiece. As for price, expect to pay around $26,000 or more for an 18k gold version.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 2
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
I could have picked on any Royal Oak Offshore and it would still be a superlative watch. For a start, it was designed by one the greatest watch designers of all time, Gerald Genta. As for Audemars Piguet, their status is assured as one of the top three of the high-end watch brands – the other two being Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. You may argue that other brands are encroaching upon this territory, but these are still the three brands that consistently impress collectors the most.
The Royal Oak Offshore is the beefier brother of the Royal Oak. The Royal Oak broke new ground the moment it was introduced at the Basel fair of 1972, (now known as Baselworld).
Its origins began on the eve of the Basel Fair in 1971 when Audemars Piguet CEO Georges Golay asked Gerald Genta to design a luxury stainless steel watch that was both sporty and at the same time elegant. Working literally overnight, Genta designed a watch that changed the face of watches forever. Genta considered the Royal Oak the crowning achievement of his career. It was also a much needed new concept for AP. The early 70s saw several high-end brands facing severe difficulties due to the so called quartz crisis.
Although by today’s standards the watch was modest in size, by 1970s standards 39mm was considered a large and imposing watch. The movement of choice was the beautiful self-winding Calibre 2121, derived from the Jaeger-LeCoultre Calibre 920 which was later used by Patek Philippe for the Nautilus, another steel sport watch designed by Gerald Genta in 1976.
The design theme was inspired by a diver’s brass helmet, and the name itself was to have a distinct nautical influence. Audemars Piguet ultimately settled upon Royal Oak which came from the name of a series of eight vessels in Britain’s Royal Navy which in turn took their name from the ancient hollowed oak tree within which King Charles II of England hid to escape the Roundheads during the Civil War. The symbolism of the number eight is reflected in the octagonal design of the bezel.
Today the watch is regarded as a design classic, but it faced harsh criticism upon its initial introduction. It was deemed ugly as the 8 screws were visible on the bezel, it had an integrated bracelet and an exorbitant price tag of over $3,000. It was most certainly the shock of the new.
So much for the Royal Oak. Twenty years later, once the Royal Oak had become firmly accepted, the Royal Oak Offshore was introduced. The first Royal Oak Offshore was designed to cater to the tastes of sports enthusiasts. The idea was to produce a “deconstructed” approach taking the elements of the Royal Oak and making them more powerful.
Audemars Piguet describe the Royal Oak Offshore’s key characteristics as being of larger-than-life proportions, using high-tech materials and components engineered to ensure protection from magnetic waves, as well as by its distinctive “Mega Tapisserie” motif.
And so to the Bumblebee model, which was released in 2009. It is particularly sturdy with an impressive forged carbon case and signature octagonal Royal Oak bezel. This watch is highlighted by a tachymeter scale printed on a yellow flange, and white gold luminous hands and pushers protected by a rubber coating. The black and yellow colourway resulted in the watch being known as the Bumblebee. The watch features a small seconds sub-dial at the 12 o’clock position, a magnified date window at the 3 o’clock position, and it comes on a black “Hornback” crocodile strap with matching yellow stitching. The watch is powered by the AP calibre with a power reserve of around 60 hours.
The Royal Oak Offshore in its many variants is worn by celebrities such as actor and retired Mayor of California Arnold Schwarzenegger, singer Usher, and Chelsea footballer Frank Lampard. Love the Bumblebee version? It can still be acquired, but just make sure you have at least $30,000 in disposable assets.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 3
TAG Heuer Monaco
No man can go wrong with a TAG Heuer Monaco. It’s not so much that the watch is a feat of haute horology, although it certainly broke some rules and it’s a sound enough piece of precision timekeeping, it’s just that it is indelibly linked to one of the coolest men who ever walked planet earth. Steve McQueen. Whole coffee table books have been written about how effortlessly stylish Steve McQueen was, and this is the watch he actually wore in the movie Le Mans.
The watch was first introduced in 1969 in honour of the Monaco Grand Prix. The year before Steve McQueen had appeared in the action thriller Bullitt, with electrifying full throttle car chases through the streets of San Francisco. No wonder TAG Heuer wanted Steve McQueen to wear one of their watches after the success of that movie.
Steve McQueen wearing the TAG Heuer Monaco
At the time of the Monaco’s introduction it was hailed as the first square shaped watch with a water resistant case. It also happened to be the world’s first square shaped chronograph. It was not actually created specifically for Steve McQueen, it had been around just a year before it was selected to appear in the movie, but the watch was introduced at a time when Mr. McQueen was one of the most bankable stars in Hollywood.
Probably because the movie starred Steve McQueen, Le Mans is regarded as an iconic motor racing film, and you can bet that upon seeing it, several wannabe boy racers went ga ga for the watch he wore. And why not.
Today, TAG Heuer has managed to make an almost separate industry purely out of the Monaco and its legion of fans. It is a complete collection, one of the latest models of which is the MONACO V4 with a belt driven transmission. Forty years later, and men (and even a few women still lust after this watch).
There are today numerous designs in the Monaco range, and yes, even women have started to wear them. The basic models in the Monaco range are the Automatic Chronograph, Automatic, Sixty-Nine, and LS. You may want to go looking at the other options and the other dial colours but what you really want is the Monaco Automatic Chronograph with the Calibre 12 movement. This is the one Steve McQueen wore, and anything else is just not quite the same.
Why does the Monaco earn its place in the list of Ten Essential Luxury Watches? Steve McQueen aside, the brand also has an excellent heritage. Founded in 1860, it specialised in the creation of sports watches as well as and high-end chronographs.
These well conceived chronographs were specially designed for automobiles and aircraft. TAG Heuer also designed the oscillating pinion which is used to create mechanical chronographs by watchmakers.
Somewhere out there is probably a TAG Heuer Monaco wearers club, if you are looking for exclusivity in your watch wear, this is probably not your watch, but if you seek the charisma, the cool and joy of owning a real piece of contemporary horological history, you really should have a Monaco Steve McQueen edition (Tag Heuer Monaco Chronograph CAW2111.FC6183) in your collection. It’s not arbitrary, it’s compulsory. You should be able to acquire one for around $5,500.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 4
Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
This is another of those ‘no watch collection is complete without…’ kind of watches. Just as there are Coca Cola and Pepsi Presidents, there are Rolex Submariner and OMEGA Seamaster diehards who swear by these luxury divers. Arguably, these two watches vie for more attention and create more emotion than any other watches in the luxury watch category.
Both of them have the distinction of having been on the wrist of the world’s most famous secret agent, James Bond. The OMEGA Seamaster is the watch currently on active service, and has been so since Pierce Brosnan took on the role in 1995.
Why did they make the switch? It was for business reasons more than for any performance or aesthetic issues. One possible decider for the change of guard was a switch of emphasis in the business environment. OMEGA was eager to participate in high-profile co-promotions and product placement opportunities, especially the James Bond franchise, whereas conservative, rather secretive Rolex decided it was simply not their style.
The faithful Seamaster has a rich tradition. It been around since 1948 and comes in many editions, but rest assured, whichever modern Seamaster you choose, you can be confident it has all the essential ingredients that a first class diver should have including a screw-in crown and case back, unidirectional bezel, highly legible phosphorescent hands, and excellent water resistance to 300 metres or more, which is, of course, deeper than you are ever likely to go unless you have concrete moulded round your feet.
The Seamaster Professional Diver 300 M was worn by James Bond in five Bond movies. These Seamasters are made of stainless steel on a stainless steel bracelet, fitted with a blue dial, and a unidirectional rotating bezel with blue ring and a sapphire crystal.
But even if you are not interested in the Bond association, there are still some compelling reasons for choosing an OMEGA Seamaster, especially the versions with the Co-axial escapement. The Co-axial escapement was developed by the greatest horologist of the 20th century, Dr. George Daniels. It was developed in 1974. This invention is considered by those in the know to be one of the most significant horological advancements since the invention of the lever escapement itself. But incredibly, having invented it, George Daniels could not get anyone interested in incorporating it into their watches for over two decades.
The co-axial escapement functions with a system of 3 pallets that separates the locking function from the impulse, avoiding the sliding friction of the lever escapement. The problem of friction had been thought to be unsolvable until George Daniels developed this system.
In technical terms of the sort ‘Q’ would appreciate, by using radial friction instead of sliding friction at the impulse surfaces, the co-axial escapement significantly reduces friction, thereby resulting in longer service intervals and greater accuracy over time.
OMEGA introduced the mechanism into their watches in 1999. It’s certainly a nice to have addition, but in truth it is not the clincher for most men when it comes to wanting to own an OMEGA Seamaster.
Irrespective of the Bond allure and charisma, and the CoAxial Escapement nothwithstanding, the Seamaster has the same heady sense of adventure, machismo and derring-do that imbues the Rolex Submariner. It’s the kind of watch that makes a man feel in control.
The OMEGA Seamaster is a superlatively good looking timepiece on land, on sea, on business or on the weekend. It’s as desirable in a Brussels boardroom with a Savile Row suit as it is at home in denims and loafers.
Omega Seamaster Professional
Since it was launched in 1957, the Seamaster Diver 300M has rightfully been one of the most popular watches in OMEGA’s collection. This model retails in the region of $4,000, although it really depends where you buy from. Be sure to always buy from an authorised dealer because this is one of the most copied watches in the watch world.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 5
Cartier Tank
Many Swiss watch brands have a long and illustrious history, but the Cartier Tank must be one of the longest running wristwatch collections. First released in 1917, in the early days of wrist watches for men, the iconic Cartier Tank has been an important part of the Cartier collection ever since. The reason it’s called the tank is because when Louis Cartier created it in 1917 he was influenced by the design of the Renault tanks that were busy ploughing up the fields of France in the most vicious war mankind has ever known.
Nowadays it’s must easier to gaze upon the lines and proportions of a Cartier tank than a Renault tank. Since its introduction, the watch has been featured both as a square and a rectangular shaped watch. Its strap is seamlessly integrated into vertical sidebars known as ‘brancards.
The Tank is a diverse watch indeed, it has had to be able to adapt in able to last the course. There have been countless variations of the watch have been released by Cartier. The Tank Louis released in 1922, the Tank Americaine in 1989, and the Tank Francaise in 1996 are but a few examples. So although it may be thought that a Cartier Tank is a popular choice, there are several editions to look out for. There are however some distinguishing features that makes a Tank instantly identifiable. The defining features include its bold Roman numeral dial with a chemin de fer chapter ring, sword-shaped blued steel hands, and a sapphire cabochon surmounted crown.
Louis Cartier, who died in 1942 during the second World War, was instrumental in perhaps the earliest wrist watch design when he created the Cartier Santos for his friend, aviator Alberto Santos Dumont. Although created in 1904 the watch did not go on sale until 1911.
Cartier Tank types
The entry level Tank series is known as the Tank Solo range, and to make this popular model accessible to all there is even a quartz version. This range comes in a variety of choices, gold, steel, a pink dial, and a panther or python motif.
Other variations include the Louis Cartier model so called because the designer wore this model himself. In this edition the tops of the lugs are rounded, embodying the contribution made by Louis Cartier to the modern style later known as Art Deco. There are size choices too including small, extra flat, large and extra large to suit all size of wrists.
- Tank Anglaise which comes in in a choice of no less than 18 models, features a winding mechanism seamlessly incorporated into the case.
- Tank Americaine has a more pronounced curve while alternating between rounded curves and angles.
- Tank Francaise features a case boldly set right at the centre of the bracelet to seamlessly mimic its lines.
- Tank MC gives a number of interpretations to the famous Tank theme with skeleton versions in pink gold and palladium.
So which Cartier Tank to choose? The look has been a design classic for over 90 years so it’s really a matter of taste and budget. The iconic look of the Tank has been much imitated over the years and is probably the most famous rectangular watch within the entire watch world.
Prices vary significantly from the entry level Solo range that start a comparatively modest $1,800 for the quartz version to over $100,000 for the Tank Anglaise in 18ct pink gold with diamonds embedded along the bezel.
King Edward the VII described Cartier as the king of jewellers and the jeweller of kings, so a genuine Cartier Tank should certainly form a part of your essential luxury watch collection.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 6
Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
Experts generally agree that when it comes to Breitling, the Chronomat is the most popular collection in their redoubtable range. For this reason, the Chronomat is another essential watch in your luxury watch collection.
Originally created to equip the famous Frecce Tricolori flight team, the Chronomat has constantly evolved over the years, both technically and aesthetically. We picked on the Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish. It’s been described as a perfect blend of power and performance, and like all watches in the Chronomat range it has a no messing, macho charisma to it that hints of deesp sea diving, plunging from planes in the dead of night, synchronising watches and all that exciting manly stuff.
Breitling don’t go in for fancy artistic limited editions with more complications than there are church sermons on a Sunday. They deliver handsomely designed, powerfully engineered watches built to be worn day in and day out, often by professionals such as pilots and military personnel. For this reason, Breitling has developed a worldwide reputation for quality and dependability, and if anything, probably punches above its weight.
There are many Breitling dials that contain a lot of information, information the average man in the street will probably never need, but with the Chronomat, the design is clean and although packed with information, also uncluttered in terms of its layout and looks.
The Chronomat 44 Flying Fish has a modern dynamic, some would say futuristic font on the bezel. The original Chronomat issued a few years ago was the first timepiece from Breitling to feature an in-house made Breitling movement. The Chronomat B01 with the in-house made and designed caliber 01 movement, and it’s this movement that powers the Flying Fish. It’s a self-winding mechanical movement with a power reserve of 70 hours.
This particular version of the Chronomat was created for world record breaking free diver Herbert Nitsch, the only man in the world to dive without the aid of oxygen to a depth of 700 feet, even though unfortunately there were serious health complications resulting from the dive when he suffered neurological damage after attempting to surface. This resulted in the diver being out of action for over a year.
Herbert Nitsch wearing Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
On the road to recovery, Nitsch, nicknamed the Flying Fish, (hence the name of the watch), can hold his breath for more than 9 minutes and has set 32 world records in all of the 8 recognised disciplines of free diving, which is unrivalled in the history of the sport.
The Chronograph on the Breitling Chronomat Flying Fish, as with all watches in the range, is 1/4th second, 30 minutes, and 12 hours. Water resistance on this model is 500 metres, far deeper than even Herbert Nitsch can manage. All Breitling watches are COSC certified, meaning the chronometer has been independently tested for accuracy following a series of rigorous tests. The watch comes on the Diver Pro rubber strap or a macho Pilot steel bracelet.
Many regard Breitling not merely as a luxury watch choice but a professional tool watch. A Chronomat should definitely be part of your luxury diver’s watch arsenal. The Chronomat 44 GMT is hefty and reassuringly solid, a pleasure to wear on the wrist. Fans of the Chronomat include actor John Travolta, who wore a Chronomat in From Paris With Love.
So how much should you expect to pay for your own Flying Fish? Retail the watch is $9,060. If you see cheaper versions on Ebay be very cautious, it’s best to always always buy from an authorised dealer.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 7
Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
The Watch Snob, who writes a regular column for Ask Men.com dismisses the Panerai brand as a fad, a phase you eventually grow out of, and refuses to acknowledge that the Italian /Swiss brand has any credibility, perhaps because it was the actor Sylvester Stallone who almost single-handedly put them right back on the world map when he discovered their watches in Italy while filming.
The brand had of course existed for many years prior to this, and already had a sterling reputation in World War II when Panerai diving watches were used by Italian Naval frogmen. In fact it is known that Naval frogmen captured during the war very quickly found their Panerai diving watches confiscated, never to be seen again.
Things did not fare so well for the brand after the Second World War and it drifted out of business. It was not until 1993 that Panerai started to reproduce the Luminor in very small quantities. In 1997, the year that Sylvester Stallone discovered the brand in Italy, the brand had been acquired by the Vendome Group.
Panerai has a large number of fanatical supporters who would heartily disagree with the Watch Snob, and this includes a number of well-known celebrities such as Sylvester himself and Orlando Bloom who continue to have a love affair with the brand. Collectors avidly seek certain models, and there is no question that the unique and imposing look of the watches makes them a must have addition to any luxury watch collection.
Currently one of the most sought after watches in the Panerai collection is the Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm. Fitted with the famous P.3000 calibre, it features a hand-wound mechanical movement with a power reserve of three days. The movement is visible through the sapphire window on the case back, and the movement itself was entirely developed in-house in Neuchatel.
The movement also has the device which enables the hour to be adjusted without interfering with the running of the minute and seconds hands.
Perhaps what creates the burning passion for the brand is the fact that the Radiomir 1940 3 Days features the classic vintage good looks of the original Panerai design, part haute horlogerie timepiece, part robust, sporty watch that saw edge of the seat wartime action. The materials chosen and the construction of every detail has influenced the creation of the watch.
The dial, with the small seconds hand at nine o’clock and the date window at three o’clock, has the classic sandwich structure of two superimposed plates with the luminous material between them, the light of which emerges through the holes in the upper plate corresponding to the hour markers. This type of dial construction was designed by Panerai before the war in the late 1930s in order to provide greater brightness and legibility. The colour of the dial is black.
The case is made from AISI 316L stainless steel, highly resistant to corrosion. The case and bezel have a polished finish. The Radiomir 1940 3 Days come on a black leather strap, which can be changed according to taste.
Undoubtedly there is a powerful vintage appeal to the look of these watches as they have remained more or less faithful to the original design. For the first time, the Radiomir 1940 case appears with a matt black finish, produced by a DLC (Diamond-Like-Carbon) coating on the steel structure. The black dial is of sandwich construction with minimalist graphics. The watch is water-resistant to 100 metres.
This model should not be confused with the Panerai Radiomir 1940 chronographs unveiled at Baselworld 2014. A rough guide to price would be in the region of $9,000. So don’t worry about what the Watch Snob says, you will impress many an aficionado if you have this luxury timepiece in your collection.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 8
IWC Da Vinci Automatic
IWC, another of the most illustrious Swiss watch brands, turned to possibly the greatest inventor of all time, Leonardo da Vinci, for inspiration for this collection, and it is one of the most elegant in the IWC arsenal.
Leonardo da Vinci conceived more inventions and machines, and discovered and documented more of the laws of nature than hundreds of his contemporaries as well as those who succeeded him. Among many of his passions was the measurement of time. Da Vinci invented helical gears, bevel gears and complicated screw transmissions, which can still be found in many machines today, including watches. His work on space-saving spring drives and new escapements, in particular, was extremely important.
In recent years watches have been all about impressive proportions, 45mm +, but for those with smaller wrists a large watch can look overbearing. The Da Vinci Automatic is an attractive alternative for those watch lovers who prefer a smaller version of the Da Vinci collection.
The tonneau-shaped case measures 35.6 × 42.5 millimetres, which makes the attractive large date display all the more clear and legible. The silver-plated dial, combined with the 18-carat rose gold case and brown alligator leather strap, is the epitome of elegance. The tobacco-coloured dial, framed by the stainless-steel case, is likewise balanced to perfection by the dark brown strap.
Powered by the 30130-calibre automatic movement with a 42-hour power reserve, the Da Vinci Automatic may at first seem like an unusual choice for an essential luxury watch collection, but it is certainly one of the most elegant editions in the entire IWC family. Also, it’s important to balance overtly sporty watches, such as the Breitling Chronomat 44 and the OMEGA Seamaster with something that is both different in shape and quite different in genre. This dress watch is much more about elegance and sophistication. With its refined proportions it’s ideal for slipping under the double cuff of a shirt for a night at the opera or an exclusive dinner party.
Alternatively, the watch could look just the part on a wannabe US President dining in his favourite ribs restaurant. We know this because Kevin Spacey, who plays ultra-ambitious and conniving politician Frank Underwood in the Netflix origjnal series House of Cards, is actually seen wearing one. In some episodes he is also seen wearing an IWC Portuguese Automatic, so if IWC is good enough for a scheming, smart-as-a-whip politican like Frank Underwood, we can conclude that this is indeed a canny choice of watch. In some respects it’s as if the brand is coming home, because IWC Schaffhausen was originally founded in the 1860s by one Florentine Ariosto Jones, an American engineer and a skilled watchmaker.
An IWC Da Vinci is also a choice perhaps less obvious than some of the more usual luxury watch selections such as a Rolex or an OMEGA, and every collection should have its surprises. The Da Vinci Automatic was first introduced in 2007 and has since proved extremely popular with IWC followers because it is one of the most uncomplicated, clean and uncluttered watches in the Da Vinci family. And so by now you will be wondering about the price. Well, the Da Vinci Automatic in 18ct gold can be acquired for around $15,000.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 9
Patek Philippe Calatrava
And so we come to Patek Philippe, and no one will argue about your choice should you be lucky enough to wear any kind of genuine Patek watch upon your wrist. Founded in 1839, Patek has been around significantly less time than Vacheron Constantin, who can trace its origins back as far as 1755, but they certainly made up for lost time.
Patek Philippe is generally considered to be the finest watch manufacture in the world, and more than any other brand, they manage to hold their value, especially with some of the rarer references. Patek Philippe themselves take the view that you never really own one of their watches, you merely take care of it for the next generation, an allusion to the in-built quality and longevity of their timepieces.
One of their most popular collections is the Calatrava. First launched in 1932, the range is one of subtle elegance, intertwined with the finest classic lines which make possible the showcasing of timepieces that speak directly to a man’s heart and are impervious to the passing trends of watch fashion. The collection is named after the knights of Calatrava who made up the military wing of the monks of Citeaux, a French Cistercian order.
This is currently the watch to be seen wearing among the wealthy elite in China, and let’s not forget, China will eclipse the States as the world’s wealthiest nation within this year, so we can expect many more Patek’s to be Shanghai bound. Don’t expect anything flashy or showy about a Calatrava, it is sober, reserved, discreet, yet utterly confident in its presentation. The proportions are modest, just 38mm, and the look is distinct, slim and elegant.
There are many Calatrava’s, but do not expect multiple complications on this range, you might get a small seconds or perhaps a date, but not both. The overall look is pure, simple and unassuming. It actually blends perfectly with the Asian philosophy not to show off but to quietly achieve excellence.
There is a platinum version for those who want something different, but for the most part the metal of choice is 18k rose gold. The movement can be either manual or automatic, with a 44 hour power reserve.
So if a Patek Philippe Calatrava is so simple and pure, why is it so exalted? Within its elegant casing is a neat summary of what traditional Swiss watchmaking is all about.
Essentially every component, every millimeter of its being is made to the most exacting standards possible. The quality of a watch is defined by the materials used, the craftsmanship employed in its making, and the movement used in the watch. Patek Philippe uses only the best of these when making each and every timepiece. Patek watchmakers, jewellers, enamellers, goldsmiths and other artisans work exclusively for the company, and their workmanship is personally inspected by the CEO.
Although the Calatrava is the purest and simplest form of the brand’s products, each watch is so scrupulously manufactured that it takes a minimum of 9 months to produce. Patek also happen to make the finest complications in the world. For example, Patek Philippe Calibre 89, introduced in 1989, is the most complicated movement ever made.
The Calibre 89 boasts a total of 33 complications, a celestial chart which graphically and accurately depicts the night sky, a split-second chronograph for the measurement of elapsed time in split seconds, and a Grand Sonnerie, four gongs that chime the time in hours, quarter hours and half hours.
When you wear a Patek Philippe watch you can be sure in the knowledge you are wearing a watch of outstanding quality and pedigree, and for this reason, it is essential to have one in your luxury watch collection. In fact it is even better to have two.
Prices for the Calatrava start at $20,000 + but always buy from authorised dealers.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Watch Number 10
Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711
Once you have one Patek Philippe watch in your collection, you will certainly want another. And the one I personally would most treasure is the Jumbo Nautilus. The Nautilus was the first luxury sports watch and was designed by the late and legendary Gerald Genta, who also designed another choice in this luxury watch collection, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak.
The majority of the production was and still is in stainless steel. According to Genta himself, he designed the Nautilus at Basel World when he was sitting at lunch with some Patek Philippe executives. He designed the watch on the back of a napkin as they were talking. After lunch he showed them the design, and they were so impressed it went straight into production. The basic design has not changed in decades.
Introduced in 1976, the Nautilus has established itself as a classic, an elegant sports watch with the porthole shaped bezel. The original reference is one of the most sought-after timepieces at auction. In the current collection the watch that most resembles the original is the Ref 5711/1A, and in fact it looks even better than the original. You can opt for a model in rose gold, but you are better to stick with the stainless steel.
This watch can be comfortably used for diving, but don’t expect the same depth capabilities of a Rolex Submariner or a professional tool watch, that’s not what the Nautilus is all about. It’s a supremely stylish sports watch you can wear on land, on sea, and enjoy the cachet of wearing a Patek.
One of the design features of the Patek Philippe Nautilus is that the dial has a small gradient, where the blue or black face goes from dark to light as you move to the centre, creating a ripple effect. Hard to achieve, it’s just another hallmark of Patek quality.
While there is a Nautilus chronograph and recently a new Nautilus dual time version, the Ref 5711 has just a date at 3 o’clock.
List price for the Nautilus is $26,700, you may be able to get it for a little less, but the extra cost of ensuring that the watch is from a reputable and authorised dealer is definitely worth the extra investment. What do you get for your money? In terms of specifications, a sapphire crystal back, a quality screw-down crown, the famous black-blue dial with gold applied hour markers with luminescent coating, a self-winding calibre 324 S C movement with date and sweep second hand, and approximately 45 hour of power reserve. But there is an additional element you also get with a Patek, and it is best summed up in the company’s dearly held values.
Independence, Tradition, Innovation, Rarity, Value, Quality. It’s the disciplined consistency in the way Patek Philippe applies these values in everything they do that makes it a brand of, in their own words, unparalleled renown. And you can’t really disagree with them.
Would these be yours brands of choice for the essential luxury watch collection?
Let us know, we would love to know your choices.
Ten Essential Luxury Watches – Synopsis:
1. The Rolex Day-Date President
2. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Offshore “Bumblebee”
3. TAG Heuer Monaco
4. Omega Seamaster 300 M Co-Axial 41MM
5. Cartier Tank
6. Breitling Chronomat 44 Flying Fish
7. Panerai Radiomir 1940 3 Days – 47mm PAM 00514
8. IWC Da Vinci Automatic
9. Patek Philippe Calatrava
10. Patek Philippe Nautilus Ref. 5711