In short
A Rolex Submariner reference number identifies a specific model configuration, not simply a year. Start by separating no-date from date models, then confirm the case era, material, bezel and movement. The current steel references are 124060, 126610LN and 126610LV, while vintage examples need closer inspection because details can vary within one reference.
- Rolex identifies ref. 6204 as the 1953 Submariner and ref. 124060 as the 2020 no-date Submariner in its historical collection overview.
- The current US Submariner collection contains seven references, spanning Oystersteel, Oystersteel and yellow gold, and yellow gold models.
- Ref. 124060 is the current no-date Oystersteel model, while ref. 126610LN is the current black Oystersteel Submariner Date.
- A reference number narrows a search, but it does not authenticate a watch or confirm that every component is original.
Contents
- What does a Rolex Submariner reference number identify?
- Which Submariner references matter most when comparing generations?
- Should you choose a no-date or date Submariner?
- Which Submariner references are in the current Rolex collection?
- How should you use a reference number when comparing listings?
- Frequently asked questions
- What should you check before contacting a dealer?
What does a Rolex Submariner reference number identify?
A Rolex Submariner reference number identifies a model configuration: the family, generation and, in many cases, its date function, material and bezel combination. It is the best starting point for a search, but it is not proof of authenticity, originality or condition.
Treat the reference as the watch's catalogue identity. A listing described only as a “Submariner” can refer to very different watches, from an early four-digit no-date model to a current 41 mm Date model in yellow gold.
Use a reference number to answer four practical questions before looking at price:
- Is it a no-date or a date model? The presence of a date window and Cyclops lens quickly separates many references.
- Which generation is it from? Four-digit, five-digit and six-digit references point to broad eras, but are not a substitute for checking the individual watch.
- What was the original configuration? Material, bezel colour, dial layout and movement should align with the stated reference.
- What is being offered now? A reference does not reveal polishing, replaced parts, service history, provenance or completeness of box and papers.
For current models, the manufacturer's specification pages provide a clear baseline. Rolex lists the no-date Submariner ref. 124060 as a 41 mm Oystersteel model with calibre 3230, while the black Submariner Date ref. 126610LN uses calibre 3235 and has a date display under a Cyclops lens.
A Submariner reference identifies the intended model configuration, not the condition or legitimacy of one particular watch.
Which Submariner references matter most when comparing generations?
Most buyers do not need every Submariner reference ever made. The useful approach is to recognise the reference groups that mark meaningful changes in date display, case construction, materials, bezel technology and movement generation.
Rolex dates the first Submariner, ref. 6204, to 1953 and says the Submariner Date arrived in 1969. Its historical overview also records ref. 124060 as the current-generation no-date model introduced in 2020. Rolex's Submariner history is the primary source for those milestones; a specialist reference chronology is useful for comparing the wider vintage sequence.
| Reference group | References to recognise | Why the group matters when comparing listings |
|---|---|---|
| Earliest four-digit Submariners | 6204, 6205, 6200, 6538 | Early no-date watches have substantial dial, hand, crown and case variation. Reference alone is rarely enough. |
| Crown-guard no-date era | 5512, 5513 | These long-running references are central to vintage no-date collecting and require close attention to dial and case details. |
| First date era | 1680 | The 1680 is a major dividing line because it introduced the Submariner Date format. |
| Later acrylic-to-sapphire progression | 16800, 16610 | These references are common comparison points for buyers seeking a more recent 40 mm Submariner Date. |
| Ceramic-bezel modern era | 114060, 116610LN, 116610LV | These references established the immediately preceding modern look, including ceramic bezel inserts. |
| Current 41 mm generation | 124060, 126610LN, 126610LV, 126613LN, 126613LB, 126618LN, 126618LB | These are the current references shown in Rolex's US collection as of September 26, 2026. |
The important distinction is not that a longer reference number is automatically better. It usually means the watch belongs to a later product generation, with different dimensions, movement, materials or features.
If a vintage listing combines an attractive dial description with a familiar reference, ask for clear photos and documentation rather than relying on a nickname. A reference can narrow the field, but individual components, service replacements and provenance can materially affect what is being offered.
The fastest way to understand a Submariner generation is to identify its date function first, then compare its case, bezel, movement and original configuration.
Should you choose a no-date or date Submariner?
Choose a no-date Submariner if a balanced dial and direct connection to the original tool-watch layout matter most. Choose a Submariner Date if everyday date display and the Cyclops lens are features you will genuinely use.
The current Oystersteel no-date model is ref. 124060. Rolex specifies a 41 mm case, black Cerachrom bezel, calibre 3230, approximately 70 hours of power reserve and water resistance to 300 metres or 1,000 feet. The current black Oystersteel Date model, ref. 126610LN, has the same 41 mm diameter and 300-metre water-resistance rating, but uses calibre 3235 and adds an instantaneous date display with rapid setting.
The decision is visual as well as practical. The 124060 has no date aperture or magnifier, so the dial is more symmetrical. The 126610LN puts the date at 3 o'clock and adds the Cyclops lens, which makes the date easier to read but changes the familiar Submariner profile.
For vintage buyers, the same choice remains useful but the risks are higher. A date reference, a no-date reference and a dial from the same broad period may have very different collectability and condition considerations. Do not assume a date model is more valuable or a no-date model is more original without comparing the exact reference and watch.
The best Submariner reference is the one whose date function, material, size and condition match the way the watch will actually be worn or collected.
Which Submariner references are in the current Rolex collection?
As checked on September 26, 2026, Rolex's US Submariner collection shows seven references. They share the 41 mm case format, but differ by date display, metal and black or blue bezel-and-dial treatment.
| Reference | Configuration | Rolex US list price on September 26, 2026 |
|---|---|---|
| 124060 | Oystersteel, black dial and black bezel, no date | $10,050 |
| 126610LN | Oystersteel, black dial and black bezel, date | $11,350 |
| 126610LV | Oystersteel, black dial and green bezel, date | $11,900 |
| 126613LN | Oystersteel and yellow gold, black dial and black bezel, date | $19,450 |
| 126613LB | Oystersteel and yellow gold, blue dial and blue bezel, date | $19,450 |
| 126618LN | Yellow gold, black dial and black bezel, date | $50,900 |
| 126618LB | Yellow gold, blue dial and blue bezel, date | $50,900 |
Rolex publishes these seven models in its current US Submariner collection. Manufacturer list price is only one comparison point. Availability, seller price, completeness, condition and the particular watch's history can differ from that list price.
For a straightforward modern steel choice, the practical shortlist is 124060, 126610LN and 126610LV. The two-tone and gold references add material and colour decisions before any condition-related questions enter the comparison.
Current Rolex pricing separates the seven references mainly by material and configuration, not by a promise about availability or resale value.
How should you use a reference number when comparing listings?
Search by the exact reference first, then compare the individual listing against the reference's documented specification. A good listing comparison asks whether the watch in front of you matches the claimed reference and whether its condition, documentation and seller information justify further contact.
Use this sequence:
- Search the complete reference. Enter the reference rather than only “Submariner” when using a marketplace or database. DreamChrono's marketplace search accepts a watch reference number or name, which makes an exact-reference search the cleanest starting point.
- Match the visible configuration. Check date or no date, case material, dial colour, bezel colour, bracelet and stated dimensions against manufacturer documentation for current models.
- Request enough detail. Ask for clear recent photographs, the scope of included papers and accessories, service information, known replacement parts and condition notes.
- Keep identification separate from authentication. A database match can confirm what a reference should describe. It cannot replace an in-person inspection, a trusted specialist's assessment or the seller's own documentation.
- Compare like with like. Do not compare a complete, documented watch with an unknown-service-history example just because both use the same reference number.
For a vintage Submariner, reference-level identification is only the first filter. The closer a watch is to an early or collectible configuration, the more important clear images, provenance and component-level assessment become.
A reference-based search finds the right model family; the listing details determine whether the individual watch merits a serious conversation.
Frequently asked questions
The questions below address identification and selection, not authenticity, condition testing or market valuation. A reference is a useful factual label, but it should always be read alongside the physical watch and its supporting documentation.
What is the reference number for a Rolex Submariner?
A Rolex Submariner reference number is the model identifier assigned to a particular configuration. For example, Rolex lists 124060 for the current no-date Oystersteel model and 126610LN for the current black Submariner Date. Check the reference against physical features and documentation, rather than treating it as an authenticity verdict.
What is the best Submariner reference?
The best Submariner reference depends on the intended use. Ref. 124060 suits buyers who want a current no-date Oystersteel model, while ref. 126610LN adds a date display and Cyclops lens. Vintage buyers may prefer earlier references, but should expect more variation in configuration, condition and documentation.
What does a Rolex Submariner say about you?
A Rolex Submariner does not reliably say anything fixed about its owner. It can signal interest in a durable, recognizable dive-watch design, but the same reference is bought for daily wear, collecting, professional history or aesthetics. Choose a reference for its features and condition, not for the impression it may create.
The useful question is not what a Submariner signals, but whether its exact reference and condition suit the way it will be worn or collected.
What should you check before contacting a dealer?
Start with the full reference number, then make a short list of examples with the same date function, material and configuration. Use DreamChrono's marketplace search to compare reference-led listings, and ask the seller for the information needed to assess the individual watch rather than assuming the reference settles every question.
A reference narrows the search; the listing details decide whether that individual Submariner deserves a conversation.