H. Moser & Cie : QP Black Edition - Moser dares the Black

H. Moser & Cie QP Black Edition – Moser dares the Black

by Olivier Müller

Collectors know Patek Philippe, Breguet, amongst institutional brands. The most experts also have H. Moser & Cie in the radar. This independent brand is well known from connoisseurs for its outstanding range of classics, such as its best seller, the QP. This piece also won the 1st prize of the GPHG in 2006.

Today, Moser dares to do what the other institutional brands don’t : the full black version of its #1 piece, the same QP.

Recognized for its ingenious in-house calibres and elegant approach to Haute Horlogerie, H. Moser & Cie. starts 2014 with this bold new take on traditional watchmaking. The dark elegance of the Perpetual Calendar Black Edition is the first in a series of developments from H. Moser & Cie. that are both exceptional and very rare.

H. Moser & Cie QP Black Edition

H. Moser & Cie QP Black Edition

The H. Moser & Cie. in-house perpetual calendar is one of the most innovative yet user-friendly complications ever produced. This unique movement not only marks time by adjusting for leap years and the different number of days in certain months, the Flash Date Calendar harnesses the energy to switch the date accurately in a fraction of a second.

The month indication is using the hour indices to mark the months with a small third hand shaped like an arrow. Finally, this is one of the few perpetual calendars that may be adjusted forward and back at any time of day, without risking damage to the movement or a visit to your watchmaker.

With the Perpetual Calendar Black Edition, H. Moser & Cie. ventures into new territory and proves that a serious, german-style, haute horlogerie brand can also be sexy.

H. Moser & Cie QP Black Edition - Caseback

H. Moser & Cie QP Black Edition – Caseback

The Manufacture explored high-tech materials to complement its collection in gold and platinum, in search of the perfect functional material to accompany its pure design. Titanium was here chosen for its mechanical properties. It is very hard, easy to wear, hypoallergenic and extremely light. It also brings a unique urban yet timeless black finish to the watch that puts a focus on form and perfect surfaces.

The burnished glow of the Perpetual Calendar Black Edition hints at the material within: the case and pin-buckle clasp are titanium with a DLC treatment. Even the extrusions of the Moser “M” on the crown are purely etched from this hard metal. The dial’s black surface is punctuated by rose gold indices and hands, enhancing both the character of the watch and the legibility.

The off-centre seconds dial reveals gold accents, marking time with a hacking seconds function. The matte black finish on the movement includes a blackened escapement bridge that lets the Moser escapement gleam from within.

H. Moser & Cie QP Black Edition - Dial

H. Moser & Cie QP Black Edition – Dial

Just a few words on the technical specs of the piece – unchanged from the source model, but still outstanding : perpetual calendar of only 41 mm, low frequency of 18.000 vib/h., interchangeable Moser escapement, big date, minimum power reserve of 7 days, leap-year cycle indicator on movement side. Enough said ?

In the end, why does this piece is not just another PVD version of an existing model ? Because it’s the first time that such a classical brand with a classical complication, the QP, dares to go black, and perfectly does it with an outstanding model. If ever a Calatrava appears one day in black, we should remember that Moser had already shown the way before.

    Author Bio

    Articles by Olivier Müller


    Olivier Müller is a professional journalist specialising in horology. He divides his time between Geneva and Paris, covering horology-related topics for a dozen or so magazines and specialist websites in Europe. He is also a regular speaker at various events. In 2008, Olivier Müller set up Delos Communications to manage the writing side of his business, spanning five European countries. Delos Communications also provides consultancy services for horological communication, helping brands as they define and implement their strategy in terms of positioning, messages and audience. In addition to the world’s two largest watchmaking groups, Delos Communications’ clients include a broad range of emerging independent brands, as well as public-sector bodies keen to promote their local watchmaking heritage. Five people work for the agency, including a journalist, a photographer, a community manager and a translator, all with expertise in the world of watchmaking.