Patek Philippe 5990 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph - Baselworld 2014

Patek Philippe 5990 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph – Baselworld 2014

by Matthew Boston

This new model adds a travel time function to the next generation of the Nautilus chronograph. So what is the travel time function? Well the Travel Time function enables you to instantly see the time in two different time zones at once. It does this by using two hour hands on the same axis, an upper solid one like the minute hand and a lower skeletonized one.

Patek 5990/1A Nautilus - Baselworld 2014

Patek 5990/1A Nautilus – Baselworld 2014

The solid hand indicates the local time while the skeletonized one the home time. When at home and both times are the same the skeletonized one remains hidden under the upper solid hand. When you are in another timezone you can set the local hand by adjusting it in one hour increments using the plus and minus corrector buttons.

Patek Philippe 5990 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph – Case

Despite a redesign of the case the new Patek Philippe 5990/1A Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph maintains it signature shape like that of the original 1976 model. The main change for this update of model 5980/1A to the 40.5mm x 12.53mm stainless steel case is the necessary addition of two buttons on the left side. These buttons are for adjusting the travel time function and have been integrated into the design while maintaining the original Nautilus shape.

Patek Philippe 5990/1A - Case

Patek Philippe 5990/1A – Case

These pushers have been disguised to look like the original case design and at the 2 and 4 o’clock positions there are the pushers for controlling the chronograph. Like the case the bracelet is a mixture of contrasting polished and brushed finishing.

Patek Philippe 5990 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph – Dial

The dial retains the signature horizontal embossed ridges of the original Nautilus and radiating outward is a understated dark-to-light gradation. It features the same baton shape hands, while the chronograph sweep seconds hand narrows towards the edge of the dial. The dial has two day/night indicators at the nine and 3o’clock positions and marked as Local and Home which tell you the time of day in the relative time zones. Useful for avoiding waking up people with calls in the middle of the night.

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Ref. 5990/1A - Dial

Patek Philippe Nautilus Travel Time Ref. 5990/1A – Dial

Effort has been made to preserve a nice dial balance by positioning the Patek Philippe logo within the 60 minute chronograph subdial to balance the lower sub-dial with the busier upper one for indicating the date. Incidentally the travel time function has also been seen on another Patek Phillipe and thats the Aquanaut Travel Time Ref. 5164A.

Patek Philippe 5990 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph – Movement

For a combination of these four complications (chronograph, date, day/night, and travel time)
the development of a new movement was needed.

Patek Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS

Patek Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS

The new Caliber CH 28-520 C FUS is a movement consisting of 370 components and despite its complexity comes in at a modest diameter of 28 x 31mm with a thickness of 6.95mm. Its a self-winding movement with a minimum power reserve of 45 hours and can be seen through the sapphire case back.

Patek Philippe 5990 Nautilus Travel Time Chronograph – Conclusion & Price

The Nautilus is such a classic design its always interesting to see variations of it . Some people will inevitably have reservations about the busyness of the dial on this new model however others may find it a welcome update with improved functionality. This new model supersedes model 5980/1A and is priced at $57,300. If you need more picture, Please check this post by Eduard Osipov with some nice “Hands-On” pictures and wristshot.

    Author Bio

    Articles by Matthew Boston


    Matthew Boston has worked in the computer graphics industry for 17 years in various parts of the world, currently residing back home in the UK. His interest in watches was first piqued as a youngster when he was fascinated by a Seiko digital watch he received. He's also founder of UniqueWatchGuide which is dedicated to sharing the news about timepieces that are unusual, unconventional and more often than not unobtainable.