Hat-tip to Nomos, who at this year’s Baselworld proved that even an independent watchmaking company can mix it up with the big boys when it comes to the prized honour of “in-house”. The Nomos Metro Datum Gangreserve will be the first piece in their portfolio to use the new “Swing System” which means that instead of relying on Nivarox to make its assortiments – the parts which make up the escapement, Nomos can now produce their own, ensuring complete independence. You’d think that this would herald an end to one of the most endearing qualities of Nomos watches – their sensible pricing structure but, if the new Metro models are anything to go by the selling price has been largely unaffected, despite the reputed investment of over 10 million Euros, and the five years of intensive research and development which went into this new innovation.
Nomos Metro Datum Gangreserve: Pure and Simple – Nomos Design
Nomos are part of the wealth of talent to be found in Glashütte, the small and perhaps curious location for intensive watchmaking. Organically grown from just 3 employees in 1991, they have already won the hearts and wrists of those who desire pure, simple functionality and minimalist styling. Quality is of the utmost standard and each watch is made to meticulous Manufactory conditions.
Nomos Metro Datum Gangreserve: Finer Detail
Typical of Nomos, the new Metro has an uncluttered, clean dial framed by a trim bezel. Diminutive numerals placed right on the edge ensure that there is dial space aplenty surrounding the outsize date window, the small seconds counter and the off-centred power reserve indication. Look closer and there are subtleties to be enjoyed – with fresh mint green accents and loupe-worthy finishing. Both the hour and minute hands taper to eye-lash slender proportions and are so similar in proportion that one can only assume that at midday and midnight one will be concealed completely by the other, readability remains good thanks to a slightly raised inner ring, which features its own markers to indicate the hours.
Nomos Metro Datum Gangreserve: Metro System
Turn the piece over and the sapphire crystal reveals the orderly layout which a Glashütte three-quarter plate brings to mechanical watchmaking. It is as decorative as it can be while at the same time maintaining understated plainness, featuring a combination of Glashütte ribbing, Nomos perlage and a ratchet and a crown wheel which have been sunburst-finished. Going forward, the Nomos calibres which incorporate the new “Swing System” will be distinguishable by the prefix DUW – Deutsche Uhrenwerke, and the movement inside this new model is the manual-wind Calibre DUW 4401 with 23 jewels and a power reserve of 42 hours.
The steel case of the Nomos Metro Datum Gangreserve measures 37mm across and the piece will come presented on a black Cordovan strap made by leather specialists Horween. When it comes to “Basel Time” many watchmaking companies are guilty of revealing details of their latest technology just to have something to bring to the attention of their customers and the press, resulting in many months of waiting time – not so at Nomos, who will have this new model available for purchase in May 2014. The Metro is priced at $3,780 (2,600 EUR).